The Ancient Greeks’ relationship with the Cosmos was polarised between the rational and the spiritual. Tools such as the Antikythera mechanism, the first known analogue computer, were used to predict astronomical positions as a way to seek logical explanations for celestial phenomena. Simultaneously, the universe was bound by its links to mythology, the Zodiac system and the gods, who in turn, dictated a transcendent life. Hellenistic astrology underpins our understanding of the reasoned and the mystical, even today. It also provides the context for the F/W 2017 collection by Zeus+Δione that explores contrasts set in motion by the worldbeyond.
In this collection, opposites attract. The relationship between positive and negative space is explored in unexpected cutouts, well-positioned slits and off-set openings, as well as through volume, in engineered sleeves and pleating. Like the distinction between our closest two luminaries, the sun and the moon, material combinations such as suede and leather, knit and woven, velvet and metallic, enter into an intriguing dialogue.
The juxtaposition of ivory and the deep infinitive black is pronounced. Zeus+Δione’s signature spathoto silk, exclusively woven for the brand, comes in emerald this season, and suggests a slight nod towards the cosmic. Celestial spheres circle the body as accent copper metallic yarns woven into silks. Astronomical fragments have been used as the basis to create a new distinctive print in dark tonal hues. Galaxies are classified in spiral, elliptical and lenticular: shapes that appear as reoccurring motifs and themes.
Synonymous with Zeus+Δione, the Greek heritage coexists in the collection alongside the main influences. Based on 19th century folklore costumes from Boeotia, cotton yarn and bronze sequin embroidery depicting cypresses with triangular shapes, geometric branches and dancers, are used in skirts and details. Loom weaving seen in the previous collection has been developed into a design feature for cuffs, while embroidery and subtle cord embellishment is used to bring a strong contrast to skirts and blouses.
Zeus+Δione’s signature Attiki bag comes in new colours for this season: emerald, taupe and tobacco, whilst handmade embroideries from different regions of Greece have been applied on velvet and sheepskin surfaces to embellish bags and to celebrate craftsmanship. The brand’s jewelry collection now includes pieces inspired by the fluid movement of silk, as well as a traditional metal bell
Like the gravitationally bound system that inspired it, ‘Galaxy’ consists of a universe of jewels set in orbs.