ZEUS+DIONE’S first menswear collection
An homage to human endeavour, manual labour, and humble craftsmanship re-envisioned for the contemporary urban gentleman.
Marios Schwab, Creative Director of Zeus+Dione, introduces the first Menswear Collection for the S/S'24 season, stating, “From the moment I joined Zeus+Dione, I was intrigued: where is Zeus in all of this? The masculine element was already inherent within the feminine pieces, which I naturally incorporated whilst designing, as I have always enjoyed drawing inspiration from elements of men’s tailoring and applying them to women’s pieces. The inclusive element is essential as it inspires an expression of freedom. Furthermore, the brand is closely tied to craftsmanship, and so I decided that the first menswear collection should be dedicated to the people who have maintained these elements of craftsmanship intact.”
“The idea behind the collection focuses on a specific era, the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, which could be considered the Golden Era of modern Greece, giving rise to beautiful movements in art, music, literature, and architecture.”
Influenced by the tailors of Syrrako, Marios Schwab, Creative Director of ZEUS+DIONE collaborated with tailoring artisans in Athens, like Christakis and Vasilis Bourtsalas of Bespoke Athens. The collection's tailoring, translated into linen suits and cotton blends, incorporates spathoto silk—a signature element of the brand—to introduce nuances from womenswear into menswear. Curious to learn more about their craft and the partnership with Zeus+Dione from their perspective, we sat down with both artisans.
In a conversation with Christos Nyflis from Christakis, we learned...
When Mr. Christakis arrived in Athens from Constantinople, he established his shirt-making workshop on Kriezotou Street in 1947, thriving in an era where bespoke was the only way. Despite the rise of ready-to-wear shaking the industry in the '60s, and a shift towards imported garments during the 80’s, the Christakis brand adapted without losing its essence. Since the early 2000s, under new generation’s leadership, there's been a revival in demand for authentic Greek craftsmanship, particularly among the youth, with the brand remaining committed to handcrafting timeless -whether off-the-rack, made-to-measure, or bespoke- pieces. Today the business prioritizes handmade quality in small quantities to meet demand while fostering sustainability.
In discussing the collaboration between Zeus+Dione and Christakis for the S/S'24 Menswear Collection, Christos Nyflis (Mr. Christakis’ grandson) shares, "We're quite selective about collaborations at Christakis, but with Zeus+Dione, there was an immediate connection. Even though we may be different, we found common ground in our commitment to traditional tailoring, the preservation of craftsmanship and the use of eco-friendly materials." The collaboration sparked from inspiring meetings between Mr. Nyflis and Marios Schwab, where they delved into Christakis' historical archives.
Their flagship creation, the 'PERA' shirt, pays homage to Christakis' origins in Constantinople, where this shirt style originated. Crafted in three fabric options, two were tailored from spathoto cotton-silk, while another variant was fashioned from cotton voile, renowned for its fine texture and subtle transparency, embodying the hallmark fabric of the Christakis brand. "Featuring vintage elements and a slightly oversized fit, the design's standout feature lies in its pointed collar shape, directly inspired by our historical archives. It's crafted exactly as it was back then!", Mr. Nyflis says.
Meanwhile, our dialogue with Vasilis Bourtsalas from Bespoke Athens unveiled the intricate layers of innovation and tradition that define their approach.
Founded in 2004 by Vasilis Bourtsalas, Bespoke stands as a prestigious style laboratory, featuring a diverse portfolio of tailors representing esteemed international tailoring schools, encompassing English, Italian, French, and German craftsmanship. Alongside Greek artisans, Bespoke offers a diverse range of styles to its clients. Mr. Bourtsalas underscores the current surge in demand for made-to-measure garments, emphasizing their tailored fit to individual measurements and offering a wide selection of fabrics and styles for clients from.
Zeus+Dione joined forces with Bespoke Athens for the S/S'24 Menswear collection, a collaboration lauded by Mr. Bourtsalas. As he stated, “Our collaboration with Marios Schwab was outstanding. Right from the start, Marios articulated his inspiration and the concept behind the collection, taking cues from the attire of Greek artisans in the 1930s. This era served as our touchstone, and our objective was to contemporize it through subtle refinements.”
As part of this synergy, they created an exquisite range of tailored jackets, trousers, and two unique shirt models. These designs were inspired by the timeless principles of the "English school" of tailoring, closely echoing the iconic silhouettes of the 1930s. Mr. Bourtsalas expanded on this, stating, “The English hold a profound respect for tradition and heritage, embracing subtleties such as gently pleated sleeves and relaxed buttons in their attire. The English suit is 'constructed' to enhance the client's physique, creating an elegant hourglass figure.”
Each jacket of the collection was meticulously handcrafted using traditional canvassing techniques, eschewing modern fused interlining methods. Mr. Bourtsalas clarified, “Canvassed suits, though more costly, are renowned for their superior fit and longevity.” These garments proudly embodied all hallmark features, including a sharply defined nipped waist, Doric chest, unique peak lapels, and the graceful English drape. Ruching on the sleeves added an element of ease and lightness.
“Marios requested high-rise, full-cut trousers to resonate with the spirit of modern times. In this context, we added side adjusters that cinched the waist, somewhat reminiscent of the trousers worn by Greek craftsmen in the 1930s. These skilled artisans constrained by limited resources and financial challenges, ingeniously tightened their belts around their waists to adapt to varying widths,” Mr. Bourtsalas says.
Swipe to view the Menswear Catwalk looks, in order of appearance.
Styled by Katy England and captuted by Federico Pompei
